Hey all! It’s been a while since I last posted because
I don’t have wireless at the house, and it’s taken me a while to find somewhere
else to post.
Lets see, so much has happened since
then:
Things I’ve learned: Geckos chirp like birds,
dogs can learn to look both ways on the street, the part of Ubud where all the
tourists are isn’t really Ubud, and it didn’t exist 30 years ago, it’s really
just an outer suburb that has exploded to accommodate them.
I had my last night/day at Kebun Indah.
They are so great. Got a tour of the Ubud Kaja rice fields on Sunday morning, a big loop past rice and
coconuts, and a surprising number of random cafes and tourist bungalows and
even a “fine Italian restaurant”. Apparently foreigners buy up random rice fields from Balinese that
want/need to make fast cash, and then tend to turn them in to proto-businesses.
They fill in the land, run some wiring out, and turn it into “ an authentic,
scenic Balinese rice field experience”.
I’m sure it looks amazing on the website photos, but in practice it is
beyond bazar. My guide obviously had
mixed feelings about it too. He wasn’t psyched about how the tourists have
taken over in the last 30 years, but on the other hand, he makes his living
giving tours and running a little café/guest house/etc. Interesting guy.
I am learning to drive a scooter!
Yesterday it rained for a bit, so fewer people were out on the roads. I jumped
at the opportunity. Within a half hour
the roads were busy again, but I had made five or six laps of my tiny
little neighbor hood of Nyun Kuning, and could now turn right. There was a
group of women moving bricks at the one major intersection, and they got to see
the whole process. On the first lap I almost ran my bike straight at their
brick pile, and they all jumped. The next lap was more successful, and by
number five they were smiling and cheering my progress. (this might be an exaggeration, but they definitely at least grinned and
remarked. I was proud enough of my right turn into traffic that I’m pretty sure
I cheered out loud for myself, so I’m going to go with they were cheering with
me. ) Right turns are haaard. Remember
they drive on the right here.
Today Putu drove me out to Sibang Kaja,
partly to see the Green School and partly so I can learn my rout to work. The
ride to work sticks to a few large-ish
roads, which is uncomplicated, but
traffically intimidating. We’ll see how
I do on Wednesday. The Green School is …
stunning. I mean really, wow. I will
dedicate an entire post to it some time, with pictures, because, … just… wow.
Ooh! I went SHOPPING! For real things!
In the actual shopping road, not the tourist area. Ibu Wayan, my awesome new
housekeeper gave me a ride and helped me out. There is NO WAY I could have
managed without her. Too much traffic, to much to stare at, no interpretable signage
anywhere. I perched on the back of her
bike and we set out in search of 1) a mosquito net and 2) a lock for the
door. The security measures at my house
include a stick with a nail through one end used to bar the front gate against
dogs, and a padlock on the porch door. Except that the padlock had been
misplaced. So I had a stick with a nail in one end. Not sketchy at all.
(actually, weirdly, not one person seemed to bat an eye at this, so I’d like to
think it’s not quite as sketchy as I think? Unclear)
Anyways, Wayan and I went out, and wandered
from stall to stall until we found what we were looking for. The mosquito net
we found on the second try, and was fairly straight forward, except that I have
no idea if I paid a fair price, since Wayan has never bought one, or really
ever considered using one. The lock
proved trickier, and eventually we were pointed towards a large-ish supermarket
things. They did have padlocks! And also a Dairy isle! So I grabbed some
essentials in my first grocery haul! Woo! I now have milk, eggs, potatoes,
onions, rice, fruit, butter and tea. I can now officially cook for myself in my
very own kitchen! WHAT!?!?!?! Woooo!
today i am eating a delicious breakfast of fruit, rice porrige and chicken curry-ish-thing at the little hotel restaurant across the way. Finally! Free Wifi!
ok, love to you all. Will try to answer the emails i got in the last two days, but it might take a while.
Ari